While walking around the show floor and speaking with exhibitors, I encountered many French participants joking about the various impediments facing the opening of this year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris, held June 10-11. The site of the annual exhibition, Carrousel de Louvre, on the lower level of the famed musée, had re-opened just two days before the show, after being closed due to the worst flooding of the Seine River to occur in 30 years. Add to that the trash strike, train strike, airline strike and the drama of the world soccer championship, and the status had seemed uncertain. Locals attending the show quipped that France likes to stay in the news in this way, that strikes represent the quintessential French reputation.
But as Sandra Maguarian, co-manager of MakeUp in Paris, told me, the outlook for the show’s opening had gone “from dark to sunlight.” The Seine began to recede, warnings were lifted and MakeUp in Paris’s organizers produced another record-breaking B2B show dedicated to the cosmetics sector.
Jean-Yves Bourgeois, co-manager of MakeUp in Paris, said this “one was one of the best MakeUp in Paris shows ever.” It attracted more than 3,500 visitors during the two days and more than 1,700 conference attendees, “figures never before reached.” He added: “All the keys for success were present, in other words a very busy, very ‘pro’ show of increasingly international scope (29% foreign visitors), a clearly not-to-be-missed occasion.”
An expanded show floor accommodated 150 exhibitors dedicated to packaging, formulations, ingredients and accessories; 30 suppliers were new to the show this year.
Nineteen session topics ranged from Opportunities in the Iranian Cosmetics Market to Sustainable Packaging and Practices. (See Online Exclusive.)
A new feature of the event, Digital Beauty, included 10 exhibitors who presented visitors with digital solutions available for the beauty industry—from easily accessible specs on products from vendors, to tools that enable consumers to play with makeup and skin care prior to making a recommended purchase customized to their specific needs.
The Perfume to Makeup exhibition, the Innovation Tree (with 28 winners out of 75 products entered and judged), and a space dedicated to sustainable development sponsored by Chanel Parfums et Beauté (see this slideshow - Makeup in Sustainable) added to the breadth and excitement of the event. Not to mention the festival energy that was created as periodic makeup parades wound their way around the show floor.
Key Trends Noted
As brands continue in their pursuit of attracting youthful consumers—as well as those looking for signs of luxury—packaging and application techniques continue to develop.
Tactile and decorative effects, in both formulation and packaging, remain popular with many 3D effects, pseudo animal skin treatments and fluorescent colors reminiscent of the 1970s. Containers with windows and transparent packaging ensure that makeup colors are easily and instantly visible.
The softness and convenience of the makeup world-changing cushion continues to expand, with cushion applicators prevailing in applications for compacts to eyes to lips.
New gestures remain important in sparking consumer interest, as do “the little things” that connote luxury packaging, such as clicks and pulls.
Masks are more popular than ever and several suppliers offered interesting solutions.
Lip products including scrubs and plumping formulations and double-duty and multi-use lip and eye products drew lots of attention.
With the rush to get to market and streamline the supply chain, more suppliers are offering full service for seamless production and delivery.
Cushiony Applications
At Taiki, Jim Perry told Beauty Packaging that in Europe and the U.S., the company had formed a partnership with Toly for a cushion compact. The Capacity-plus cushion compact incorporates Taiki’s T-engine sponge and applicator puff, designed more for the mass market. Perry said the product has attracted a lot of interest. “We’re seeing the cushion category getting bigger and bigger,” said Perry.
Albéa’s Artist Bubble had been commercialized for Givenchy’s Cushion Kiss. The tube with a super-soft cushion applicator, used for a new soft balm gloss, is also ideal for concealer, foundation or shadow blush, according to Marjorie Vincenti, communications project manager, Albéa. She said that the luxury brand had wanted to target a younger audience, and the very convenient package had provided the demographic with “great appeal” in a travel-friendly applicator for smooth and plumped lips. The decoration for Cushion Kiss features a combination of black writing and window print allowing the colors of the gloss to stand out.
An advance in cushion compact technology was news at Collcap, with the addition of a mesh ring. The product is squeezed through a mesh barrier rather than a sponge. The supplier also was showing three sizes of mesh jars for powder, which are great for on-the-go use as the powder doesn’t dispense until you press, even if it’s turned upside down. Three sizes of cushion pen applicators were offered for eyes and lips.
For more on Cushion Compacts, please see the sidebar “What’s New in Asian Packaging” in this article.
Focus on the Lips
Are Lips the new Nails? Many in the industry think so, and throughout MakeUp in Paris, suppliers were presenting formulations and packaging designed for market success. From cute and adorable to sleek and sophisticated, clever packages brought a smile to attendees’ lips.
Full-service provider Tae Sung Group, Korea, showcased lip (and mascara and skin care) packages from novelties to luxe. Lipglosses housed in miniature “wine bottles” and “wine glass” forms drew attention, as did unique formulations such as lentil bean tanning lotions and fermented snail infusion.
Her Maow International, Taiwan, offered a wide variety of packages including plastic jars in a variety of fresh colors that resembled delicious sugary French macarons. The company offers formulations and packaging and also has a brush facility.
One of the turnkey products receiving lots of attention at HCT Group’s booth was Lip Smoothie Balm, a two-step lip treatment product that is featured in the supplier’s new Double Jar component—a great on-the-go component that doesn’t sacrifice size.
You can fit two full-size lip treatment (or other) products in this package, whereas on-the-go products are usually much smaller.
The lip duo offers a micro-dermabrasion treatment for the lips that sloughs off dead skin cells on one end, and a moisturizing jelly lip coat on the other. This unique hydrating gel scrub contains both jojoba and eco-friendly mineral beads to remove dry flaky skin cells from the lip area for an ultra-smooth surface. The beads disappear upon application without leaving a gritty trace. The second step is the lip jelly, which adds a moisture barrier for a soft, glossy finish. HCT also created a Green CC Balm and Concealer duo in this jar.